Removing Cannondale SI drive side crank arm from SRM spider

Hash out light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.

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peterpen
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I got a Cdale SRM (woohoo!) and I want to get the drive side crankarm off the spider/powersensor because I accept black SL arms on the way. :twisted:

Umm, and then how practise I that? The various PDF's I've looked at all show removal for the NDS and the crank-pulling bolt is backing up against the spindle.


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yourdaguy
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by yourdaguy

There are 2 little parts that take an viii mm hex and you use it to pull the crank off. If you don't take the petty parts, yous can probably get them from a cannondale dealer for very footling money. One screws into the arm and the other screws into the bb spindle. That one is ready for the 8mm and you then turn it to button the crankarm and the other piece out.

You will want to view this:

http://www.cannondale.com/asset/iu_file ... ent_en.pdf

Note that this document gives yous the Si and the Si carbon arms which are different. The carbon arms have a self extracting system which requires no extractors and are made past FSA for Cannondale. The Carbon artillery utilize a 10 mm hex (I have one, simply few do) for installation and extraction. The SL arms are like the SI not-carbon artillery I am fairly sure.

The regular SI arms are 11% stiffer than DuraAce 7800 and lighter besides. The Carbon arms are as strong equally DA 7800 and weigh about as much. I am non sure, but call back the SL arms are lighter nevertheless and between the other 2 in stiffness.

The Si cranks have 6mm less "Q" than DA and most other cranks. The Carbon arms are in between on "Q" and while I have never measured the SL artillery, I believe they have the narrower of the 2 "Qs".

Too, for the record, the Carbon arms practice not have the removable spider like the other Cannondale SI artillery.

For certain parts stiffer is more than important than lighter.



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yourdaguy
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by yourdaguy

The parts you demand are called KT013 and sold as a kit (run across page 24 of the above referenced certificate). You lot screw the little one in the bottom bracket then screw the bigger one in the crankarm so employ an 8mm to turn the little one out and it pushed the big one and the arm.

For sure parts stiffer is more of import than lighter.


peterpen
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past peterpen

Thanks so much for your detailed reply! :thumbup:

Unfortunately, I'g not sure it tells me what I need to know. Is the crank puller commodities (I have those two parts) going to push confronting the spider? It is described equally pushing against the spindle.

The assembly is all in pieces - except the bulldoze side arm is notwithstanding attached to the spider. It is already off the spindle, I just need it off the spider.


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STARNUT
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past STARNUT

you nned to remove the lockring from backside the spider.

You realy need the Cannondale tool. Some have been able to employ an sometime XTR BB tool but that is fashion ghetto and you risk stripping the lock ring and fixing a $2500 powermeter to a crank arm; use the right tool..........

It happens to exist part number KT012 from Cannondale. I think they actually phone call it (commas and all) the "Kit,Tool-Lock Ring-SI".

It is the correct diameter and more than importantly, the prongs are the right depth. The XTR tool bottoms out before it seats affluent with the lock ring and..............slips.

It proves to exist a handy little tool to have around. You can ship your PM to the spings and withal ride the wheel. You can drop the weight of the PM (why I'grand not sure its already lighter than DA) for hanging the bike on a calibration.

At any charge per unit, buy the tool. You don't want to be that guy who tears up a $3500 powermeter becuase he was to cheap to buy a $thirty-$50 tool.

Starnut

"Don't pedal harder, pedal faster!"
Q-FACTOR IS A RED HERRING

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MaestroXC
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by MaestroXC

Edit: And, my post was made irrelevant.

Congratulations on getting some sweet cranks.

Last edited by MaestroXC on Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:20 am, edited i time in total.

Zealots beware.


peterpen
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by peterpen

Cheers, Starnut!

Yeah, my buddy was just telling me how he got his off with a pin spanner... just he besides tapped his bearings into his frame past hand using the bearing removal tool. :shock:

Anyway, this gives me an excuse to mount the crank right away, which means I can dial in the fit, suit the front der., etc. (non to mention ride my new wheel!!!) And so when my artillery arrive, I'll take the store pull the one-time arm off (my buddy says the lock ring tool is on back-order, only I'll be getting one eventually.)

I tell ya - Cdale makes some cool@ss stuff, just there's a boatload of fiddly little proprietary pieces and tools! Wave washers, spacers, and circlips - oh my! :lol:


peterpen
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by peterpen

One other question - I'm actually missing the crankbolts. :roll: Can I utilise Campy or FSA ones I happen to have on mitt or should I just wait the two days until the Cdale rep swings by the shop with some accurate Cdale ones? I'yard guessing I should look, otherwise the store would have suggested the stop gap measure out...


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Zeed
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by Zeed

with crankbolts on cdale i think they use FSA ones, considering the chainrings are normally FSA. FSA and shimano are backwards compatible and so i dont see why non, just call up cannondale and make sure first.


peterpen
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by peterpen

Zeed wrote: with crankbolts on cdale i think they use FSA ones, because the chainrings are normally FSA. FSA and shimano are backwards compatible so i dont see why not, but remember cannondale and make sure kickoff.

I idea SI chainrings are un-branded Stronglight...


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STARNUT
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past STARNUT

peterpen wrote: Yep, my buddy was just telling me how he got his off with a pivot spanner... but he as well tapped his bearings into his frame by hand using the begetting removal tool. :shock:

Does he have a three foot long spanner :lol:. That lockring has some serious torque on information technology. That is ghetto..................he didn't have a headset press with a big washer :lol:

peterpen wrote: I tell ya - Cdale makes some cool@ss stuff, merely there'southward a boatload of fiddly little proprietary pieces and tools! Wave washers, spacers, and circlips - oh my! :lol:

and....

peterpen wrote: One other question - I'm really missing the crankbolts. :roll: Can I use Campy or FSA ones I happen to take on hand or should I simply wait the two days until the Cdale rep swings by the store with some authentic Cdale ones? I'one thousand guessing I should wait, otherwise the shop would accept suggested the stop gap measure...

I think yous just anwsered your own question. Merely call and get the right ones. They have them in stock..............its merely similar five solar day shipping to the due west declension.

If y'all order the tool and the bolts at the same time you accept no problem :D

peterpen wrote:

Zeed wrote: with crankbolts on cdale i recall they use FSA ones, because the chainrings are normally FSA. FSA and shimano are backwards uniform and then i dont see why not, but recollect cannondale and make certain first.

I thought SI chainrings are united nations-branded Stronglight...

Waldo let some info go that they (zipp) get their rings from the same guys that brand Salsa. I'd presume that cannondale get theirs from the same location/manufacturer.

Starnut

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Q-FACTOR IS A Carmine HERRING

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yourdaguy
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past yourdaguy

The chainrings that come up on the Carbon Si cranks are fabricated by FSA and say "Made past FSA" on them. The rings that come on alloy SI cranks say Cannondale on them and are different in that the FSA rings are standard chainrings that use industry standard chain bolts (although the ones supplied are the FSA Torx blazon) and the blend crank rings accept threads in the inner ring that the bolts screw into-"arrangement integration". I am not sure who makes the "Cannondale" rings for Cannondale.

For sure parts stiffer is more than important than lighter.


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STARNUT
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past STARNUT

they practice?

The ones on mine just say "cannondale", "MK V" and "made in the USA".

It would make sence on the carbon SI crank becuase FSA made it for them.

Starnut

"Don't pedal harder, pedal faster!"
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yourdaguy
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by yourdaguy

Mine say "Cannondale" "Made past FSA". Mine are new so maybe this was a production alter.

For sure parts stiffer is more of import than lighter.



SMITHERS
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by SMITHERS

PeterPen,
Where did you get your Black SL Crank arms? I'thousand in NorCal too & I was told by a local dealer that he tin't get them beacuse they are for the MTB'south & the EURO market only...